Showing posts with label adding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adding. Show all posts

Adding the polycarbonate

Here’s the latest in the dome greenhouse series showing the polycarbonate installation. It’s nice having it enclosed and not working out of the wind. It’s still cold, but the heating system is next on the list!

Transcript:

Welcome Back!

This video will show how the exterior of the dome is covered.  The northern face of the dome has no polycarbonate and is covered in OSB and will eventually be shingled.  Each of the triangle sections needs to have studs added to support the boards.  Placing them can be tricky when it’s difficult to reach all the points.

Sometimes the best laid plans don’t always work…

Once all the studs are installed, it’s time to install the OSB.  I found it was easier to set the sheathing by ripping the OSB into two foot strips instead of leaving them 4 feet wide.  It also reduced the amount of scrap that was generated.

The shed roof and part of the dome are covered in water and ice shield.  This will protect the building during the winter and will allow me to shingle the roof in warmer weather.  The shielding has an adhesive backing which helps to hold it down to the OSB and a few roofing nails insures a gust of wind won’t peel it off.

The polycarbonate sheets are 6 by 24 feet long.  I set up a couple of sacrificial sheets of OSB on the ground as a cutting area.

I decided to repurpose an old tape measure and cut it up so I could easily measure out the various leg lengths for the triangles.  With a couple of clamps to hold the ends, it made it easy to triangulate all the points.  I found it was easier to make my marks by just poking a nail through the material.  Trying to mark the frozen poly with a frozen Sharpie was a futile effort.

The polycarbonate cuts very easily with a sharp circular saw.  After I filmed this, I discovered it was even easier if I placed another scrap piece of polycarbonate under it so the blade didn’t have to also cut into the OSB.

Setting up a guide allows for a nice straight cut.  After each piece is cut, the protective film can be removed and the sawdust in the flutes is blown out with compressed air.

Installing the panels was quite simple providing there was no wind.  Before cutting each panel, I did measure each opening to insure the measurements matched the computer calculations.  There were a couple of sections that were slightly off which was probably from slight errors in the hub construction or the strut measurements.  But, for the most part they all went in as planned.

Each panel was cut so that the flutes are orientated to allow for condensation to drain out.

Once I got down to the ground level, it was even easier to install each section.  All the panels are held in place with stainless steel screws that have a neoprene-backed washer.  The screws pierce right through the polycarbonate and the washer creates a watertight seal against it.

All the joints will be taped in the spring since the waterproof tape needs to be applied when it’s over 60 degrees.  During this filming it was 20 out.  You may have noticed that I’m wearing insulated boots, long-johns, a sweatshirt, insulated hoodie sweatshirt, scarf, winter coat, winter hat under the hoodie, and insulated gloves!

All the panels intersect nicely over the hubs.  The original plan of rabbiting each stud so that the panels wouldn’t interfere with the bolts worked out well.  Also adding the bevel to the studs made a large flat surface for the panel to rest against.

The panels along the base are cut extra-long so that they will hang over the knee wall.  This will help to shed water and prevent it from getting into the dome through the knee wall.  The overlapping pieces are simply cut off with a razor knife.

The northern face of the dome that isn’t covered by the shed was also studded and covered with OSB.  Unfortunately, my HD camera was broken so I wasn’t able to film this part, but this is what the final construction looked like.

When I laid out the building, I oriented it so it faced due-south.  It now acts like a huge sundial and it’s very easy to tell when it’s time for lunch!

That’s it for now.  Next up may be the heating system.  It’s getting difficult to work in the freezing temperatures!  Don’t forget to join our Facebook page!

This phenomenon is called “needle ice” and it occurs when the soil temperature is above freezing and the air goes below freezing.  The water in the soil is drawn out by the cold air and quickly freezes, building these long strands of ice.  They’re also fun to crush!


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Butterfly


While I was filming my latest video, this butterfly landed on my hand.  In the past, I’ve received several questions about why I don’t put screens on the greenhouse vents…this is why!

(Sorry it’s blurry, this is a screen grab from the video and the camera wasn’t focused for the close up shot!)


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Aquaponics System Design Adding Fish Tanks



Check out this episode of the suburban aquaponics series to see the addition of a new fish tank. I had one more barrel left from my original Craigslist find and though it would make a perfect addition. I am getting close to the addition of some "real" fish into the system and needed a separate place for them to hang out away from the gold fish. I will be moving the goldfish out the an outdoor setup in the spring but for now they will be staying in the system. I think I have found a good supplier of tilapia at a fair price and I am hoping to get them to breed once established so I will not have to buy them again. This will be an exciting time over the next couple of months!

 
The fish tank is just made from another 55 gallon drum with the top cut off. I have found it easiest to use a circular saw or skill saw to cut the tops off. This gives you an easy guide to follow(the top rim) and gives you the straightest cuts. I have used a reciprocating saw and a jig saw with mixed results so I would recommend the circular saw for the best cut. The bulkhead adapters that I am using are the same ones I have used throughout the system with one exception, I went with 1 1/2" instead of 2" like the rest. I wanted to get a bit more velocity with the solids lifting overflow in the second tank as I will eventually have larger fish with larger food and waste. The smaller piping with the same amount of water being pumped into the tank should give me a faster flow and have more solids lifting power.


The solids lifting overflow is a standard and common design among aquaponics hobbyists. It consists of a pvc tee with one pipe going tot he bottom of the tank to collect the water and solids and another pipe going to the top of the tank to prevent any siphon from forming if water drains from the system ( a leak). The water outlet in this case just goes to the primary tank and then gets lifting out to the swirl filter.
  
 

 
 
Check out the Simple Suburban Living General Store for products featured in our videos.

 


2" Bulkhead Adapter                       1 1/2" Bulkhead Adapter
 
                             





 
This post has been shared at:  Homestead Blog Hop, Homestead Barn Hop, The Backyard Farming Connection Hop, Simple Lives Thursday, The HomeAcre Christmas Hop, Front Porch Friday
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Building a Rocket Mass Heater

The rocket mass heater is up and running and its quite the inferno!  It will be quite interesting to add some enhancements to it in the future.  Im hoping to cover the entire unit and pump the heat under the floor to increase the thermal mass.  And, make it so it can burn either wood or pellets!

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Adding Automatic Vent Openers

I finally get to work on some of the more exciting things in the dome.  Automation!!!  I love being lazy!




A few years ago I made up some vent openers which use windshield wiper motors. They work well for the small greenhouse, but the frames have had some structural problems in strong winds.  For the dome greenhouse I’m using linear actuators to operate the vents.  The actuators have a lot more lifting strength and can withstand stronger wind forces.

To attach the actuator to the window frame, I took a piece of angle iron and made a cross brace.  The brace will fit about half-way up the vent.  I cut off a section from each end so that there were tabs that would be used for bolting the brace into the face of the vent frame.  I then welded a couple of tabs into the bracket which provided the connection linkage for the actuator.  After rounding over the edges and cleaning up some of the welds, the bracket was attached to the vent frame.

The rest of the braces are standard steel bar stock that are bent at slight angles.  There are four of them which go from the greenhouse struts to the back side of the actuator.  Because of the odd angles of the dome, a few of braces need to be bent as compound angles.  If this was a traditional vent the angles would have been much simpler bends.

I temporarily bolt the top brackets to the back side of the actuator and mark where the brackets connect into the dome’s strut.  It wasn’t necessary, but I set the actuator to be level when it was closed, simply for aesthetics.  I drilled out the first hole in the dome strut and attached the bracket.  Once the pieces start to hold themselves in place, it’s much easier to mark and attach the remaining brackets.

The bottom brackets are marked and installed the same way.  It’s just a bit more critical to make sure they are placed properly so that the vent is pulled completely closed when the actuator is fully retracted.  Once all four brackets are secured, the pyramid shape from the triangulation creates a sturdy mount for the actuator.

Now that it’s fully assembled, a quick test is in order.  All the pieces are cleaned and painted to give the system a nice new look!  Once the paint is dried, it’s a quick reassembly and then time to it get wired to the controller.

A regular two-conductor wire is used for each actuator and each vent opener has a line that runs back to the controller.  The actuators have built in limit switches which stop the motors automatically.  To open and close the vent, you just have to reverse the polarity of the power in the wire.

The thermostat controller is a prototype six-relay control unit that can be programmed to set each vent to open on independent temperatures.  The unit can be programmed to sample the temperature at predetermined intervals and also delay the change between relays so that all the vent motors aren’t running at the same time.  This keeps the unit from drawing too much power all at once.  Each relay can also be disabled and forced into an open or closed position.  There are more details about the thermostat in the description area of this video.

Thanks for watching.  Don’t forget to “thumbs up” this video if you want to see more like it in the future and feel free to leave comments too.
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Aquaponics System Design Selecting and Adding Fish

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Check out this video to learn more about selecting, shipping, and adding new fish to your aquaponics system.  I have had my system running for about a year now with my feeder gold fish and it is finally time to get some real fish started! The only way an aquaponics system is sustainable is if you are using edible fish that can help to supplement the costs of running your system and that day is finally here for us.
 
 
 
I have done quite a bit of research and pondering on the question of which fish to get for our system here in the basement. After careful consideration I chose to go with breed of Tilapia called Blue Tilapia. There are quite a few different options in the Tilapia line but the Blue breed is and good all around choice for us. They survive in colder temps, breed less often, but grow quickly to a weigh of about 6-8 pounds. I had considered perch as well but in the end the benefits of the Tilapia breeds outweighed the options I had for perch.
 
There are other options out there as well and I would recommend doing some research to determine what will work best in your own system. What are your water temps? Do you heat the tanks year round? how much room do you have for breeding? These are many of the questions you need to be asking when looking for your ultimate aquaponics fish choice.
 
Finding a reliable supplier is key and one of the hardest things to do when you first get started. I was originally trying to find something local, a fishery or sporting goods store. There are some options but nothing for the fall or winter months when I wanted to get mine started. I finally found an excellent website called fishkis.com with the best prices I was able to find anywhere. I immediately placed my order in the dead of winter (below 0). My first order arrived all dead:( However, unlike many companies today the folks at fishkis worked with me right away for a reshipment when weather was a bit warmer and a few weeks later I received my full order plus 15 free fish! All were alive, healthy, and happy little Tilapia swimming  around in their shipping bad.
 
 
I am excited to get these fish growing and put into the system to start feeding my plants and getting ready to provide my family with many future meals. I will be slowly getting rid of the goldfish this summer and finding them suitable homes. Check back for the progress (and likely mistakes) along the process of growing out these fish!

For the best prices and quality on Tilapia check out this site - http://fishkis.com/

 
 

 
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Starting the Rocket Mass Heater

Today I finished building and fired up the rocket mass heater for the geodesic dome. Ironically, its January and were having record breaking warm temperatures in the 50s but I couldnt resist and started it up. I will do a full video about the construction in the future, but wanted to share a few pictures of it. This heater is a bit different than some you may see. I wanted to be sure there was enough drafting in the chimney so I doubled up the barrels.
The entire burn tunnel is buried under the floor. It took a little while to get the drafting to start. It didnt help that the internal chimney wasnt insulated yet (missing some parts for it), but once the system got warmed up, it turned into a raging inferno.
A picture without the flash shows how well the fuel is burning in the tunnel.
I ran out of sand so I wasnt able to completely bury the horizontal exhaust. It was quite hot to the touch, but as you moved down the pipe, I could hold my hand against the duct and it was slightly warm.  It was quite funny to see the sand around the duct drying out so quickly. It will be interesting to study the temperatures along the system in the future!
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Building the Aquaponic System Part 2 of 3

This is the second video in my series on how the aquaponic system is set up in the geodesic dome.  It details how all the plumbing is done.




In this second video, I’ll show how all the remaining plumbing is installed.  I’ll start with the line that runs from the central sump tank back to the main fish tank.

The pump is a standard quarter-watt sump pump with a float switch.  Eventually this will be replaced with a 12 volt DC bilge pump when the solar system is installed.  A threaded fitting is used to connect the pump to a 1 inch PVC pipe.  The piping is rated for potable water.  Then a check valve is in-line to prevent any water from back-flowing into the sump.  Next there is a union which allows the sump assembly to be easily removed in case it needs any maintenance.  Then the rest of the line that goes to the fish tank.

Since all these lines will be under some form of pressure and are being jolted from the pump turning on and off, they are all glued together with standard PVC solvent.  Also before using the system, all the piping is flushed out to remove any loose solvent or PVC shavings that may be remaining inside the pipe.

A little Teflon tape or liquid Teflon works great for threading various pieces together.

Earlier, I buried a section of 4” pipe to use as a conduit between the sump and the fish tank.  This is how the piping and electrical will run between them.  Having the union on the pipe really made it easy to lower the pump assembly into the sump and connect it to the rest of the line.  Don’t forget that this is a temporary pump until the solar is installed, so I just let the electrical run across the floor instead of through the conduit.

At the fish tank, the line comes up and out of the ground and over the tank’s edge.  I drilled a couple of holes near the lip of the tank so that the pipe could be secured to the edge.  Then I attached a 45 degree elbow to shoot the water down into the tank.  Setting up the pipe to drain at this angle forces the water to slowly swirl and most of the solids at the bottom of the tank will eventually work their way into the center.

Here are some of the details on how the fish tank overflows into the large buffer tank.  At the bottom center of the fish tank, there’s a 2 inch to 1 inch coupling that has a bunch of slots cut into it, acting as a screen.  This allows small debris through, but not the fish.  As the water level rises above the pipe, it starts a siphon which creates a strong suction at the bottom of the tank.  Any of the sediment that has worked its way to the bottom center gets sucked up and sent into the buffer tank.  The water entering into the buffer tank flows out at an angle which creates a swirl in the tank, slowly moving the sediment to the center where the pump for the grow beds is located. At the top of the pipe, there is a 1/4” hole drilled into an end-cap.  As the water level goes back down, the hole is exposed and the siphon draws in air, which breaks the water flow.  This is a very effective method for flushing out heavier solids over using a simple overflow.  A negligible drawback is that the water level fluctuates a couple of inches.

I start the overflow installation by drilling a hole in the tank and install a bulkhead fitting that has 1-1/8” threads.  I then install a threaded to slip-flit coupling so the 1”PVC pipe will attach to the bulkhead fitting.  The pipe then goes straight down into the buffer tank and then has a 45 degree elbow to shoot the water out at an angle.

Here is the pipe assembly for inside the fish tank.  The screen is a 2” to 1” coupling that I ran over the table saw to make some slots into it.  This piece sits directly on the bottom of the tank.  The pipe comes up to a tee where one end goes to the cap with the hole drilled into it, and the other end drains out to the buffer tank.

The piece that goes to the bottom of the tank wasn’t glued into place so that I could remove it just in case something does clog it.  Also the piece with the cap isn’t glued so that I can adjust the height of where it can stop siphoning.

Once the system was established, I discovered that pellets of food and duckweed would plug the siphon-break hole.  A piece of screen over the area quickly solved that problem.

This is a view inside the buffer tank showing how the water pours into it to help create a swirl flow.  The bilge pump sits at the bottom of the cone shape sucking up any solids that eventually work their way to the bottom of the cone.

The supply lines from the buffer tank to the grow beds are 1” PVC lines rated for potable water.  To keep them out of the way, most of them are buried under the floor.  Originally, I wasn’t exactly sure where all the beds were going to be placed and didn’t want to bury these lines while building the dome.  Instead, there’s a layer of sand under the brick.  The bricks and sand are easily removed and the supply line drops right into place.  Once all the plumbing is laid down, the sand is replaced and compacted and the brick flooring is reset.

At each grow bed, the supply line comes up from the floor and goes to a ball valve, which is used to regulate or turn off the flow of water. It then goes over the edge of the grow bed and pours the water directly in to the expanded shale.

The pump for the grow beds is a 12 volt DC bilge pump rated for 1100 gallons per hour and is located in the bottom-center of the buffer tank.  It is connected to a union so that is can be quickly removed for maintenance. 

Along the supply line there is a branch that feeds back into the tank where there are a few small valves which are tapped into the line.  These are used to shoot water back into the fish tank to help aerate the water and keep it moving a bit.  The fish also enjoy playing in the stronger currents.  I’ve also place a net over the tank to help prevent the fish from jumping out….again.

Up next in the series will be the grow bed design and construction.  For additional information, please see the description box or leave a comment.  Thanks for watching!


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